The bodices of ball gowns are worn with very low necklines and with long points at the waist. They are composed of eight parts: four for the front and four for the back. To understand this, see the model, plate 4.

Take the two front pieces which you cut along the grain of the fabric; two sides which form the neckline are cut on the bias. Cut the back along the grain also, and the side back piece slightly on the bias; in other words, so that it seems as if the grain of the side back piece matches the grain of the back. This manner of cutting the small side piece avoids wrinkles in the underarm pieces.

When the bodice is cut, one lines and assembles it, and carefully adjusts the front pieces along the grain of the material. Take the two pieces which form the neckline, join them together with the side front pieces, so as to support the front from the point to the neckline, to avoid wrinkles, as always happens when this manner of sewing is not followed. These seams are worked on the inside with backstitching.

Take the back pieces, join them to the small side pieces which you sew on top with backstitching, and finish the edges of the back, putting in a hem tape wide enough to be able to make a backstitch, which leaves room for a whalebone and a place to make eyelets.

Join the front and the back by sewing together the two underarm pieces. One assembles the two edges, one of which is broader so that it may fold back on the lining of the bodice to the bottom of the cut edge. Assemble this edge very carefully without drawing it up or stretching it. It is necessary to adjust it so that it will make the point with the front of bodice; it should be sewn in a light way, so that when turned over it appears to be untouched.

One finishes the top of the bodice with a casing by using the same fabric and hemming this on, and running through it a small ribbon of silk on each side. The sleeves are made very short and bias-cut in the manner I show in the pattern. The method of making them is to sew with a running stitch along the bias, the lining in place on top; one then turns them right side out and the seam is finished. One puts them in like ordinary dress sleeves.