Ladies' Caps

The Seamstress, 1848

The next branch of millinery to which we shall direct attention is that of cap-making. Some attempts have been made recently to discard the use of night-caps, as detrimental to health; but it is not likely that such old friends will be speedily abandoned at the dictum of new and untried theories. We give the two following examples as among the best we know; of course the variety of shapes is almost beyond calculation.

Night Caps.—The first is made as follows: The head-piece is made of one piece of thick muslin, and the crown, which is in the shape of a horseshoe, of another. You must be careful to have both quite large enough to admit of the cap being drawn up to the size required, which is done either by a strong thread or fine bobbin, run into the slots indicated in the accompanying engraving. Having drawn up both parts to the proper size for the head, you unite them with a cord run in between them, and overcast the raw edges on the inside. You sew the front and ends into a narrow band of muslin made double ; then finish by setting on the border and strings, as shown in the pattern.

The next example we shall give may be either made entirely of muslin, or of muslin and lace. The cap itself is made of muslin, and drawn to the proper size of the head by means of slots, as in the last pattern. The crown is gathered full at the head-piece. The trimmings may be either entirely of muslin, or they may be set with lace at the edge; in either case, they must be first whipped, and then set on to the cap full. You must be careful not to hold the lace edging too tight while setting it on. These are very elegant night caps, and the details may be varied at pleasure.

Day caps are worn by most married ladies, and by some that are still single. They are of a great variety of shapes, and almost all kinds of material, but especially lace, and plain or figured net; both white, colored, and black, are used in the making of them. To insure accuracy and prevent waste, it is always advisable to cut the patterns in paper. The following may be made either in white or colored net, and looks extremely well:

First pattern.—Make a head-piece or front of the annexed shape, cutting it by a paper pattern the size require; then in a similar manner cut the crown, which is in the shape of a large horseshoe. The double head-piece is short at the back, but long at the ears, and you will require half a yard of net, of the ordinary width, to make one cap. You cut out the head-piece first, and put the kind of wire called riband-wire all round it; you then set the crown in plain at the top, and the fullness plaited in neatly at the bottom: the width must not exceed two inches. This cap is trimmed with riband, one piece of which is to be placed across the cap where the crown and the head-piece meet. For the border you will require from three to four yards either of net or lace, which having plaited, you set on full at the sides, and quite plain in the center. The border at the back is set on full, and you have strings of riband. Some ladies wear an artificial flower, or flowers, which give to the cap an elegant and appropriate finish.

Second pattern.—This is made of one piece of net, which is cut as shown in the accompanying figure. It is the most easy to make of any shape we know. The ears are formed by the corners; the front is formed and the in shape by a riband-wire; and the crown is made by plaiting in the back. It may be trimmed and bordered as in the first pattern.