Préparation d'un corsage de robe.

Leçons de couture, 1870

We believe that the instructions relative to the preparation of the bodices of dresses are useful for all and that our readers, or at least those of our readers who do not know a good method and struggle to surmount the inherent difficulties in this subject, will appreciate a meticulous, detailed approach.

To begin, one cuts, out of the percaline* to be used as lining, all pieces which make up the pattern of the bodice; one folds this percaline in two, and it is fixed as firmly as possible, with pins, on each piece of the pattern representing only half of the back, or the sleeve, etc.; the piece is cut whole, since the percaline is doubled. For any bodice which opens in front, the back is cut whole of only one piece, without a seam, and the material is doubled, along the grain, according to the line down the middle of the back.

While cutting each piece of a bodice, one leaves, on all edges, 2 centimetres of fabric; this measurement is essential to ensure secure seams; on the neck and the lower edge, this excess can be only 1 centimetre.

One begins sewing the darts to fit the bosom, marked on the pattern, then one makes a few small folds or darts on the back which can be towards the armhole.

In the middle of the back, one arranges, from the lower edge, a piece of tape, 1 centimetre wide, 10 centimetres long, sewn with a running stitch, then one joins together all the pieces of the bodice by matching the similar letters (let us naturally assume that, for demonstration purposes, we are using a pattern published by la Mode Illustrée).

The first seams are not final; they are made of running stitches, and the purpose is to allow one to try on the bodice; the running stitches are made at the edge of the fabric, in order to facilitate the changes that one will find necessary; it is the same, if not always, at least very often, with regard to the darts on the bosom, mainly when one uses a pattern for the first time and one is not quite certain of the height of the darts, which can determine the graceful fit of the bodice.

Let us say while on the subject, it is a fact that people who are particularly plump fall victim to an error which is prejudicial, when they believe that wearing their gowns very tight will flatter them, and when making them, they sew the darts too high; the opposite is true, moreover, the bodice will be easy, the figure will appear more slender, and, if one avoids a tight fit, one will also avoid an unbecoming effect, as the dressmakers say, which is inevitable with plump persons who insist on wearing their clothing too tight.

In trying on the bodice, one will mark the height of the darts with a pin horizontally, in other words, the height one wants to increase or decrease them; one narrows or widens the bodice at the underarm seam, then one separates the various pieces of the bodice, and one sews it permanently, following the adjustments for a proper fit.

One sews under the edge of each front piece a band of fabric similar to that of the dress, 4 centimetres wide; one makes the buttonholes on the front of right-hand side, and sews the buttons on the front of left-hand side, then one sews the darts, and all the seams of the bodice with backstitches (see the illustration n° 35).

After all pieces of the bodice are thus joined together, one folds back the edges of all the seams, and fixes them with running stitches, taking care not to catch the dress fabric, sewing only the lining of the bodice. Before folding back these edges, decrease the width by approximately half, i.e., one leaves them only 1 centimetre wide.

The neck and the lower edge of the bodice are finished with piping or binding; both of these words are used to refer to the same thing; the piping is made of a length of the same fabric as the dress, being 2 centimetres wide and cut on the bias, one encloses a round cotton cord, while proceeding according to the method shown in the illustration, which represents the method of making piping (n° 51).

*A glazed cotton commonly used for linings.